There is a magnificent simplicity, and purity, to be found in the remote sub-Antarctic island of South Georgia were I have spent the last week with the Foreign Office, British Antarctic Survey, environmental scientists and others. This rarely-visited outcrop 700 nautical miles east of the Falkland Islands is home to the largest bird in the world, the Wandering Albatross. These massive seabirds, whose nests we came within a few feet of, soar over the world’s oceans for seven years before coming back to their home nests to breed and feed their young. They live for up to 70 years and truly command their environment, yet longline tuna fishermen are devastating their numbers. Even here, 3 to 4 days travel from the nearest human habitation, plastic is washed onto beaches and human influence is having visible detrimental effects.
The Patagonian toothfish, and the Antarctic krill occupy uncharted depths, but would be harvested by industrial trawlers were it not for their activities being carefully managed by representatives of the Government of South Georgia to ensure any fishing is conducted responsibly. There are concerns about such trawling outside of UK waters. Other species are thriving - gigantic elephant seals, thousands of fur seals, and on one beach alone 250,000 king penguins. Most heartening of all, those whales - the monarchs of the sea - are showing the first signs of recovering from the dreadful depredations of man which we witnessed in the old whaling stations we visited at Grytviken and Stromness.
We attended a superb church service in the little whalers’ church at Grytviken, where The Revd Nicholas Mercer spoke of wilderness and wildlife, of isolation and comradeship. Skua and skylarks, penguins and pipits punctuated his sermon a few yards from Shackleton’s grave, just the other side of the rusting remains of the whaling station with the piles of vicious harpoons lying around.
On our way back, we stopped off to visit the Falkland Island battlefields and paid our respects to the 250 fallen soldiers who are buried in the superb Commonwealth War Grave military cemeteries. I was especially moved by that of Colonel H Jones VC. The unspoilt serenity of the Falklands landscape was brutalised by that terrible war, as is our natural environment brutalised by so much of modern industrialism. I was visiting the bleak wilderness named Salisbury Plain on South Georgia when I came to hear of the chemical attacks by the Russians near its local namesake.
How can we humans destroy what is pure and good and simple by our foolish brutalities? We have so much to learn from the Wandering Albatross and the Patagonian toothfish.